Done Madrid and Malaga? Then visit Matarraña for remote relaxation, natural beauty and medieval towns in the mountains.

Those whose last experience of Spain was one of its bustling cities such as Barcelona can see an entirely different side to the same country in sparsely populated Matarraña. Situated in Teruel province among the Iberian mountains, the corner of Aragon that meets Catalonia and Valencia is miles away from stress and crowds.

Tourism has made little impact, so the region retains a rustic appeal. There are no big chain five star hotels, but lovers of luxury need not worry because they can enjoy an abundance of home comforts in truly unique establishments. Some people speak English, but pack the phrasebook as you will need to communicate in Spanish or Catalan. However with several ex-pat Brits buying up neglected old properties to convert into hotels and guest houses, now is the time to beat the rush and visit before the area becomes the next Tuscany or Provence.

The Matarraña river flows through the region, and the valley offers plenty for nature and outdoor enthusiasts. Walkers can explore the dry, rocky mountains, or follow the river along the valley, and parts of the perfectly clear water are suitable for swimming - though it floods during winter when the rainy season swells the river dramatically. Outdoors types can spend a night in a mountain refuge. Summers are hot, so those planning an active holiday will find spring or autumn the most comfortable times to visit.

Another gentler activity is to get on your bike and take a ride along the green way or 'Via Verda'. The former railway track from Arnes to Pinell de Brai has been turned into a cycle route, which is raised and so gives great views of the countryside. It's very level and therefore easy going, but watch out for slippery loose gravel. The Via Verda takes in the old Torre del Compte station, which has been converted into Parada del Compte hotel. The rooms open onto the garden, and the decor of each is inspired by a different station of Spain and the world, so guests can sleep in Seville or New York.

Why not stop in Calaceite, the cultural capital of Matarraña, for a drink off the pleasant central square with its attractive 17th century honey-coloured stone buildings. In addition to the town hall, churches and houses, those interested in the area's history can visit the informative archaeological museum. An excursion up to the remains of the San Antonio Iberian settlement, which predates the Romans, offers good views across the mountains.

Elsewhere among the remote hills, historic sanctuaries provide a stop off on a walk, cycle or drive. At Fórnoles a shepherd discovered an image of Saint Imogen in a juniper bush, and so Montserrate hermitage was built among the cypress trees. The image was preserved in a silver reliquary, today's pilgrims can see the version remade after the original was stolen during the civil war. The tiny town also has a castle, civic hall and small museum.

The convent of la Virgen de Gracia, which monks spent years building before abandoning it unfinished, sits above La Fresneda, where there are also ruins of a castle and bronze age astronomical observatory stones. Within the town a former monastery is now a fittingly peaceful hotel, however the rooms of El Convent are no longer spartan cells but cosily furnished with eclectic colours and antiques. There is lots of lounge space, including a central open air seating area, with glass walls for an airy feel.

San Miguel

Another hermitage is that of San Miguel de Espinalbar, and further up the mountain there are fabulous views at Tossal dels Tres eis where te three kingdoms Aragon, Catalonia and Valencia meet. The picturesque stone town of nearby Valderrobres is the administrative capital of Matarraña. After crossing the medieval bridge, the narrow streets wind up and around to the castle and gothic church on top of the hill, where it's worth getting a guide to explain the architecture and the history of the archbishops of Zaragoza who lived there. In the square there are mannerist council chambers, and the 14th century Fonda la Plaza hotel.

Whilst walking through Matarraña's towns, look out for the blue buildings, painted so distinctively in order to keep insects at bay. Every settlement has something to offer, whether it's Beceite with its charming art gallery and studio, converted from one of nine paper factories, or Ráfales on the hillside which boasts botanical gardens. Close by is the Moli de l'Hereu olive oil mill and museum, which is also a hotel and spa. Near Fuentespalda, la Coveta de l'Aigua is a cave used since neolithic times that has been recently renovated and opened to the public, with explanatory panels and archaeological exhibits. There is a Moorish turret too.

Three miles down a close by track is the hotel that calls itself 'Spain's most remote and peaceful', and it's impossible to argue with this description of Torre del Visco. There are no televisions, and guests are requested not to take their mobile phones outside their rooms. Built around a 15th century fortified house, the hotel is run by a British couple like a supremely comfortable home, with a packed library, cosy sitting rooms, and a laden kitchen table where guests can breakfast together. As you relax on the terrace, enjoying a glass of homemade lemonade or a gourmet three course meal made with produce from the hotel's own farm, take in the silence apart from the hum of wildlife as you admire the beautiful views over the river and fields.

Tourists have ample opportunity to sample the fruits of the land during their stay. After choosing and enjoying one of the many local wines, you may want to take some home. One of the more unusual producers is Bodegas Sorolla, a biodynamic vineyard near Valderrobres, where the grapes are grown according to the rhythms of nature as well as organically.

Herbs grow wild, filling the air with the fragrance of lavender, rosemary and savory. In the north east of Spain, it is very cold in winter and hot in summer. Olive and almond trees love the Mediterranean climate, and if you visit in February they will be out in blossom. Olive oil production is small scale in the region, which means the growers are able to pick the olives when they are at optimum ripeness and take them to the press as soon as possible, so olive oil connoisseurs will want to leave room in their suitcase for a bottle.

'Pan con tomate' is the way to eat the rustic local bread, rubbed with fresh tomato, olive oil and salt. Traditional Aragonese delicacies include hams, cured on the mountains in the winter cold. Catalan cuisine also influences Matarrañan meals. Sausage lovers will savour red chorizo which contains smoked paprika, and 'butifarra amb mongetes', a stew of spicy pork sausage and white beans. Lamb dishes include 'cochifrito' where the meat is marinated then fried, and 'fideus a la cassola' made with noodles. Paella which originated in nearby Valencia is widely served.

From pumpkin pasties to 'miel sobre hojuelos' which is honey on corn chips, those with a sweet tooth can tuck into delicious pastries and cakes, some of which will appear on the breakfast table, and sweets including preserved fruits and almond products like marzipan and nougat. It would be a shame to come so close to Catalonia without sampling Crema Catalana, a custard topped with caramelised sugar, so find somewhere serving this heavenly dessert for the perfect finale to a meal.

To reach the region, you can fly to Zaragoza - about 80 miles away - with Ryanair from Stansted. Near Barcelona - about 125 miles away - is Reus airport, Ryanair fly there from Stansted, Luton, Liverpool or Glasgow Prestwick. Barcelona or Girona airports are another option. Matarraña is a destination for those seeking to escape the tourist traps, though its position genuinely off the beaten track means public transport links are not plentiful. There are trains to Tortosa, the closest station, from Barcelona, but the railway does not go directly to the area, so you may need to use a taxi.

Renting a car is one way to see the whole area and stop off in lots of places, and you could make one hotel or self-catering apartment your base. Alternatively a tour will ensure you don't miss anything, several specialist UK based companies offer routes that take in Matarraña. Local organisation Senda can arrange all or part of your holiday including trekking, hiking, mountain biking and birdwatching, as well as guided tours around medieval villages, four wheel drive excursions, kayaking, and descent into canyons and ravines for the adventurous. For details visit www.websenda.com.

To book excursions or find out more about local attractions and accommodation, you can contact the tourist information at Valderrobres, Beceite or Calaceite. The Aragon and Spain tourist board websites www.turismodearagon.com and www.spain.info contain contact details for tourist information branches, tour companies, hotels, restaurants and so on. www.matarranya.org is the local website, it's in Spanish but if you search the web for 'Matarranya portal' in Google you can obtain a rough translation of its pages.

Visit this unexplored corner of Europe before it turns into 'Riojashire'!

By Cherry Butler